Now on to construction. Many sewists express a trepidation when it comes to knit fabric. No need. The only difference with a knit fabric is the stretch, control the stretch on stress areas and during construction you will be fine. The fabric on this is a cotton/poly double knit with about 20% stretch on the crosswise grain. I used a #80 ball point needle and an all purpose cotton/poly thread. When sewing knits you need that poly for stretch in the seams. The stitch I used looks like a little lightening bolt, it is designated for knits. It doesn't look like a zig-zag entirely but like a spiky straight stitch. It provides flexibility in the sewn seam.
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| V-neck |
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| stabilize v, gather at bust |
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| swimwear elastic to stabilize shoulder seams |
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| first I baste the seam, measure the elastic with the original paper pattern |
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| grade the shoulder seam to reduce bulk |
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| top stitch |
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| application of neck binding. fold wrong sides together, baste on unfolded edge, steam, measure against original paper pattern, pin to ironing board until dried, then apply to neckline (this application right side) pin and stitch |
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| this is my favorite hem technique, fold hem up on right side, stitch short ends closed, turn right side out |
I cannot believe I forgot to take a photo of the finished garment, full length. It's been a long day.
- the only major change I will make on this shirt is to grade down the fullness of the sleeve cap. Even this knit fabric wanted to ripple.
- the next one will not be white, guaranteed
- wish I had more of this fabric.......
Gratuity Moment: the time and the means to pursue sewing
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